Eat & Drink
Originally published on Friday, 14th March 2008
Brunello
This louche hotel-lobby Italian at the Baglioni in Kensington has been a UJ favourite for some time. While the food's always been okay, if a little fancy, it's the interior that does it for us; throbbingly opulent, it's more deluxe boudoir (in a Hotel Costes way) than bachelor-pad sparse, with some of the most comfortable, velvet-upholstered chairs in London.
And now the food is worth making the effort for too, since they brought in the former Harry's Bar head chef Andrea Vercelli who has injected a bit of good old-fashioned Italian back into the menu.
Try the panzanella with mozzarella di bufala or risotto Milanese with veal osso bucco to start and follow with roast turbot with spinach, pine nuts and bacon and Sicilian cannolo (pastry filled with ricotto and served with pistachio sauce) to finish. The best bit is that it's not as pricey as you might expect, with a very pleasing set lunch on offer from £19.50.
So, as with the above, you may have to pick your way through the jet-set layabouts but it's worth it, and you may even find a few genuine Italians there now.
Hours: Mon-Sun 12-2.45pm • 3-6pm (for high tea) and 6-11.45
Place: 60 Hyde Park Gate, SW7 5BB
Cost: £40
Web: brunellorestaurants.com
Book: 020 7368 5900