Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 3rd April 2008
The Grill at Browns Hotel
Mark Hix is the latest unstoppable chef director/restaurateur to be sweeping across London and beyond.
Having left Scott's and hung up his Caprice Holdings apron he's been a busy boy, with Hix Oyster & Chop House opening at the end of this month (and already the place on every hip foodie's lips) followed by an Oyster & Fish House in Dorset before the year's up.
But the latest spot to have received his midas touch is The Grill at Browns Hotel, shortly to be renamed The Albemarle in recognition of Hix's arrival. Under his direction chef Lee Streeton turns out exceptional poached Scottish langoustines with mayonnaise, beef wellington and slow-braised oxtail, with zingy Sussex Pond Pudding for desert, but there are less hefty offerings too if you're not up to a full-on British classics ambush.
Dangerously comfortable sage green banquettes and dark wood panelling add to the feeling that lunch could turn into tea and then dinner and the slick service doesn't dissuade you from this.
Loiter a while and you're sure to see some of Hix's Britart and chef pals strolling in too. Everybody, grab your pom-poms; 'Go Team Hix!'
Hours: Mon-Sat 7-10.30am, 12-3pm & 6-10.30pm • Sun 7.30-11am, 12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm
Place: Albemarle Street, W1S 4BP
Cost: £50
Web: roccofortecollection.com
Book: 020 7493 6020