EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Tuesday, 29 April 2008

The Establishment

This Parsons Green bar-slash-restaurant has a slightly nineties vibe - maybe it's the retro-ness of the place with its swivelly chairs, zippy decor and cool Brittania English bull terrier mascot.

But don't hold that against it. It's good to find a modestly-sized place that manages to get the right balance between buzzy cocktail bar and modern British brasserie without letting either side down.

The food is well taken care of by exec chef Neil Mackenzie, who serves up things like braised rabbit with peas and Jerusalem artichoke puree and roast sea bass with Charlotte potatoes and brown shrimps, as well as hearty brunches and roasts at the weekend.

And when it comes to drinks you can order wines by the flight, if you so wish, as they've got one of those natty Enomatic jobbies (who hasn't, suddenly?), or turn to the very competent Tim Oakly (former barman at Babington House) whose passion is unusual gins and who also has a nack for discovering spirits that have drifted by the wayside like various different meads and something called Shrub Cordial which tastes like liquid Werthers Originals.

Well done.

Hours: Mon-Sat 12pm-11pm • Sun 12pm-10.30pm
Place: 45-47 Parsons Green Lane, SW6 4HH
Cost: £30
Web: theestablishment.com
Book: 020 7384 2418
 

 

by SL

Weekend Eats: Archive

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 
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