Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 29th May 2008
Kingly Club, St Martin's Lane
The original Kingly Club in Soho is the sort of place I fear I might be getting too old for. All Clockwork Orange-white banquettes, filled with lusty, up-for-it, twenty-somethings, knocking back lethal cocktails to thumping beats.
Its new sister bar/restaurant is equally sleek and spacey - a style of decor that always makes me feel slightly nervous, as if might has well have turned up in full Victorian garb - but then chef Andrew Lasseter often seems to end up in places that look like they could have been built for an Austin Powers film (he's held the fort most admirably at Cocoon for the last few years).
At KC St Martin's Lane the beauty is that you have a choice - you can either do the cocktails/thumping beats thing if you're feeling particularly fresh and feisty or, if you're feeling a little more sedate (yet still in the mood for fishtanks in the walls and plenty of chrome), you can indulge in Lassester's exemplary modern Japanese creations in the downstairs Kyashii restaurant.
Dine on Wagyu beef with sake wild mushrooms or roasted John Dory with yuzu and chili and practice your best pout.
Hours: Mon-Sun 12-3pm and 5.30-12am (Lounge Bar 12am-2am)
Place: 4A Upper St Martin's Lane, WC2H 9NY
Cost: £60
Web: kinglyclub.co.uk
Book: 020 7520 4353