EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Thursday, 10 July 2008

Brasserie James

Former Quaglino chef Craig James is a very nice man, which helps when you're opening your first restaurant, even if it's a welcoming, cosily-designed brasserie in the perfect catchment area of Balham Hill in Clapham.

You can tell there is someone who cares behind Brasserie James . The waitresses aren't stroppy but surprisingly calm and together considering it's only been open for a couple of weeks, and has been full every night. There's warm bread, good butter and the menu changes regularly, depending on what fish has just arrived from Falmouth Bay, which rare-breed meats he has and which Secretts Farm veggies he's ordered.

When I was there I had a very fine roast cod with sauce Albert (cream, white wine, shallots, petit pois and baby gem - apparently created by Mr Ramsay for Albert Roux's birthday) and some delicious multi-coloured buttered carrots on the side.

Puds are classic, some with a twist, like the rosé and summer berry jelly with homemade ice cream, and there's a covered terrace out front which would be the perfect place to sample the brunch menu on a sunny day.

Seems like James knows the recipe for success. 

Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-11.30pm • Sat & Sun 9am-11.30pm
Place: 47 Balham Hill, SW12 9DR
Cost: £30
Web: www.brasseriejames.com
Book: 020 8772 0057

by SL

Weekend Eats: Archive

Comments:

Only registered users can write comments!

Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 
Send this feature to a friend Back to Eat & Drink homepage

ALSO IN EAT & DRINK

  • Weekend Eats: Ida

    I can't help wondering whether there would be less street crime if every neighbourhood had its own Ida.

  • Weekend Eats: Princess Victoria

    Shepherd's Bush is not blessed with a multitude of fine eating places so it was a canny move of former Sommelier of the Year Matt Wilkin to refurbish the faded gin house the Princess Victoria and turn it into an above average gastro-tavern.

     

  • Weekend Eats: The Garrison

    The owners of The Garrison must have been listening in when I described my perfect pub as it's as close as darn it.

  • Weekend Eats: The Connaught

    We love it when one of London's grand-dame hotels has a refurb and the Connaught, which is now part of the Maybourne Group (which also owns Claridges and the Berkeley), is no exception.

  • Weekend Eats: The Beehive

    When Claudio Pulze was revamping one of London's oldest pubs, the Beehive, Marylebone locals made sure they had their say: the carpet could go but they didn't want it changed too much and they would appreciate it if he could keep the flowers outside looking fresh to brighten the place up. The accommodating restaurateur obliged.

SUBSCRIBE

get your daily fix

FORUM

Post your stuff on the new UJ Forum. Log in here