Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 30th July 2008
Brasserie James
Former Quaglino chef Craig James is a very nice man, which helps when you're opening your first restaurant, even if it's a welcoming, cosily-designed brasserie in the perfect catchment area of Balham Hill in Clapham.
You can tell there is someone who cares behind Brasserie James . The waitresses aren't stroppy but surprisingly calm and together considering it's only been open for a couple of weeks, and has been full every night. There's warm bread, good butter and the menu changes regularly, depending on what fish has just arrived from Falmouth Bay, which rare-breed meats he has and which Secretts Farm veggies he's ordered.
When I was there I had a very fine roast cod with sauce Albert (cream, white wine, shallots, petit pois and baby gem - apparently created by Mr Ramsay for Albert Roux's birthday) and some delicious multi-coloured buttered carrots on the side.
Puds are classic, some with a twist, like the rosé and summer berry jelly with homemade ice cream, and there's a covered terrace out front which would be the perfect place to sample the brunch menu on a sunny day.
Seems like James knows the recipe for success.
Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-11.30pm • Sat & Sun 9am-11.30pm
Place: 47 Balham Hill, SW12 9DR
Cost: £30
Web: www.brasseriejames.com
Book: 020 8772 0057