Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 30th July 2008

The Garrison

The owners of The Garrison must have been listening in when I described my perfect pub as it's as close as darn it.
Managing to do that nicely worn-in, vintage feel without it seeming hackneyed, it's as if everything in the place, from the woodwork to the light-fittings, has been washed up on a beach and just happens to work in a thrown-together way.
Well-spaced tables, a higher communal counter in the middle and more intimate boothy tables at the back prevent the pub from feeling like just another boozer and put as much of an emphasis on the food, which is justly deserved.
Don't expect refined as the style is distinctly rustic and the portions are almost too generous but the baked goats cheese starter is gooey and satisfying and the calves liver melts in the mouth.
They've just introduced their own, very palateable red wine, a 100% Petit Verdot produced by Saint Hilaire in the South of France, and are now open for free-range, organic, all-the-bells-whistles breakfast (who isn't these days?). The Garrison Full & Proper includes Orkney streaky bacon and Lincolnshire pork and sage sausages.
Ping-pong between their other establishment East Village down the road and you've got your whole weekend sorted.
Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-3.30pm & 6-10pm • Sat-Sun 9-11.30am, 12.30-4pm & 6-10pm (Sun 9.30pm)
Place: 99-101 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3XB
Cost: £30
Web: thegarrison.co.uk
Book: 020 7089 9355
