EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Thursday, 21 August 2008

Aaya

It's a relief that Soho is becoming cool again when it comes to dining. For a long time the only point of eating there was because you could get a cheap bowl of pasta.

Now, it may not be quite as cheap but at least you've got swanky hotspots like Barrafina and Quo Vadis serving more than decent food… and now there's a very acceptable modern Japanese too.

Aaya might sound like something Kato would yell as he leapt from the top of a wardrobe onto Clouseau's head, but with Alan Yau's brother Gary at the helm you can be reassured you're in good hands - although with names like Gary and Alan it's slightly odd that no one has questioned their authenticity.

Anyway, dark horse Gazza has come up trumps with this cool and contemporary canteen. The sashimi is meltingly fresh (the scallops so tender you could spread them on toast), the sushi equally good (if you're still a sea urchin virgin, pop your cherry here) and there are other very nicely-done party pieces like king crab with ponzu jelly.

Are there any more Yau brothers out there we don't know about?

Hours: Mon-Sun 12-2.30pm & 6pm-12am
Place: 66 Brewer Street, W1F 9UP
Cost: £40
Web: www.aaya.com
Book: 020 8969 9853

by SL

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 

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