EAT & DRINK

Originally published on Thursday, 18 September 2008

Benja

It's funny, there was a time, about five or six years ago, when everywhere you looked it was Thai fishcakes, Indonesian salads and lemongrass creme brulee - so much so that I longed for English staples like shepherd's pie and treacle tart.

Now that we can't move for Great British Classics I find myself craving something with a bit more of a kick, so I jumped at the chance to try some bonafide Thai cuisine prepared by Thailand's premiere foodie celeb Chef McDang at the 'Michelin-Bibbed' Benja in Soho.

McDang (who has nothing to do with Scotland but did live in Pimlico for ten years) has created a new menu, including things like crispy fried shrimp with spicy mango salsa and pan-seared snapper with mushroom and coconut sauce, all of which packs a punch and reminds you just how addictive the combination of chili, garlic and galangal can be.

While I ate he taught me the basic principles of Thai food and tried to interest me in a whiff from his secret phial of 'bug-juice'; extract of a flying insect that apparently has a floral bouquet. I politely declined.

Benja itself is smart and swishy and I'll probably be back soon as I'm not sure I'm going to be able to eat anything without liberal dousings of fish sauce and lime for quite a while.

Hours: Mon-Sat 12-3pm & 6-11pm
Place: 17 Beak Street, W1F 9RW
Cost: £45
Web: benjarestaurant.com
Book: 020 7287 0555

 

by SL

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.

 

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