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Eat & Drink

Originally published on Thursday, 29th January 2009

Relais de Venise

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Contrary to what you might think about us greedy restaurant writers, I personally love a small menu - the less choices the better. So no choice at all sends me into rapture. Which is why Relais de Venise works so well. Formerly L'Entrecote, this classically decked out bistro does one thing - well, three: steak, frites and green salad.

Based on the same winning model as the original restaurant in Paris, the salad, which arrives first, comes with walnuts and a mustard dressing; the steak is the grass-fed sort from Scottish butcher to HRH Donald Russell and comes with a peppery 'secret sauce' and the frites are hand-chipped on the premises. And they keep half the steak back until you're ready so it stays hot and is accompanied with fresh frites. Simple. Though not ideal for vegetarians, of course, who have to 'make do' with a surprisingly lengthy and extremely French dessert menu and cheese selection, poor things!

A second branch of R de V has just opened in the city and is offering a very appealing 20% off until the end of March, but it's in Marylebone that you can linger over lunch or dinner at the weekend.

It's so decadent not having to make decisions..

Hours: Mon-Fri 12-2.30 (2.45 Fri) & 6-10.45 / Sat & Sun 12.30-3.30 & 6.30-10.45 (10.30 Sun)
Place:
120 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2QG
Cost: 
£30
Web:
relaisdevenise.com
Book:
020 7486 0878

by SL

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