Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 5th March 2009
Galvin Bistrot de Luxe
Eating at this still young but authoritative Baker Street institution makes you feel a bit like you're part of an exclusive club; like The Ivy without the pretense and rubber- necking.
Darkly panelled and firmly upholstered, it's a lesson in how a certain type of restaurant should look, the oval-shaped table 20 near the door being one of the most comfortable and best-placed.
The rich French-leaning food can sometimes make you feel like you're in danger of contracting gout but that's part of the charm. I have recently discovered a penchant for their signature roast veal brains but feel slightly like I should be wearing scratchy tweed and have hair sprouting out of my ears whilst I'm eating it. They're famous for other, equally delicious, lighter dishes too, like lasagna of Dorset crab and plaice meuniere with brown shrimps - they also do spiffingly good value set menu.
If you're just popping in for a drink the downstairs bar is one of the area's best-kept secrets, particularly on Sundays currently, as there's a programme of jazz evenings taking place, but book ahead to avoid disappointment.
I'm off to buy a polo neck and some looser fitting trousers.
Hours: Mon-Sun 12-2.30pm (Sun 3.30pm) & 6-10.30pm (Thurs-Sat til 10.45pm & Sun 9.30pm)
Place: 66 Baker Street, W1U 7DJ
Cost: £40
Web: galvinrestaurants.co.uk
Book: 020 7935 4007
