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Eat & Drink

Originally published on Thursday, 30th April 2009

The Fellow

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It doesn't matter how much people bang on about the Kings Cross regeneration and gush about how bustling and cosmopolitan it all is now, to me Kings Cross is still, and will probably always be, Kings Cross.

There is however a welcome new addition to the area in the form of The Fellow, a former coach house (I'm guessing) next to the station that has undergone a major regeneration. There's the pub and dining room downstairs in muted olive tones and white brick tiles, a more low-slung and retro 'cocktail lounge' upstairs called The Black Door which has its own entrance from the street and leads out to a very fine roof terrace, and a private dining room at the top.

Foodwise it's in the meat department that chef Nick Leonard excels, with things like mini venison burger with goats cheese and chorizo to start and herby homemade Old Spot sausages served simply with potato salad. Or there are sharing plates for two of rib of beef that comes piled high with excellent chips or whole sea bass stuffed with wild garlic served with new potatoes and aioli. All at a reasonable price too.

And wines are divided into styles like 'Elegant and Mineral' and 'Warm and Spicy' which, being a beginner oenophile I always find helpful.

Now perhaps the owner would be a good fellow and open his next pub on the Northcote Road.

Hours: Mon-Sun 12pm til late
Place: 24 York Way, N1 9AA
Cost: £30
Web: thefellow.co.uk
Book: 0207 833 4395

by SL

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