Eat & Drink
Originally published on Thursday, 21st May 2009
Eastside Inn
Bjorn van der Horst has a pedigree to die for. Having trained under Robuchon and Ducasse he went on to win a Michelin star at Marlon Abela's fancy Mayfair spot The Greenhouse - where diners marvelled at his foie gras with espresso syrup and amaretto foam - before heading up one of Ramsay's swanky joints, Noisette.
And now he and his wife Justine have their very own baby, on the old site of Vic Naylor's on the achingly happening St John Street. There's a bistro bit, where we ate, and a restaurant, for finer dining, separated by an open kitchen and with a 'jazz lounge' at the back where you can while away the witching hours.
The menu in the bistro, which is nice and to-the-point with only four or five choices for each course, is rather hearty with things like bone marrow and oxtail marmalade on toast (delicious) and slow spit roast short rib of beef (good but hefty) - even the monkfish was swimming in cream. Not that we were complaining but it could do with lightening up as the weather gets warmer.
The only real downside was that our waiters didn't seem to know their arse from their elbow, but considering the place has only just opened it's a minor quibble.
I noticed that Bjorn's foie gras is on the menu in the restaurant so I may well be back.
Hours: Tues-Sat 12 noon-11pm (Bistro)
Place: 40 St John Street, EC1M 4AY
Cost: £50
Web: esilondon.com
Book: 020 7490 9240
