The Palm

It felt suitably summery going to steak restaurant The Palm last weekend - in a roller-skating along the strip in Miami, playing the slots in Vegas and hanging out with Mickey Rourke in West Hollywood way.

The Palm, which has just opened on Pont Street, has venues in all the above. There are in fact 28 of the places, some of which have been going since 1926, so the concept of great steak in classically metropolitan surroundings - wood paneling and those proper American booths - obviously works, as the caricatures of famous Palm customers that line the walls further testify to.

The staff were smiley, and keen to educate us on the merits of surf 'n' turf, the filets mignons were seriously good (I wouldn't focus too much on the starters, my calamari weren't much cop) but I couldn't help feeling a little too much like we were dining in one of a chain, complete with blasting air conditioning - they clearly haven't cottoned on to the fact that a balmy evening is something of a rarity over here.

So go if you want great all-American steak, or the equally as good Aberdeen Angus version they offer, but be prepared to fork out for it (the 7 oz USDA filet mignon rings in at a meaty £31 but I noticed on their website that you can get a 14oz with a starter and side for $39 on the other side of the Atlantic) and to get a bit chilly in the process.

Hours: Tues-Fri & Sat 12-11pm • Mon 6-11pm • Sun 6-9pm
Place: 1 Pont Street, SW1X 9EJ
Cost: £60
Web: thepalm.com
Book: 020 7201 0710

by SL

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.