Monday 18 September
SHOW REPORTS
Gardem Paris
Paris-based Gardem Demerdjian has been working his conceptual, monochrome womenswear for a few seasons at London Fashion Week and his S/S 07 collection continues to further his vision of the 18th century urbanite. Raw edges, exposed zips and creasing abound on lace dresses, cut off jeans, animal skin jackets and slim cropped trousers to create an impression of the post apocalyptic warrior while gauzy wrinkled leggings worn under gathered skirts, corseted shirts and silk shorts are given sex appeal when paired with jaunty trilbys, a smattering of sequins and very high heels. The designer adds hints of burnt peach and chocolate to his trusty black and white palette and slows the pace of his catwalk presentation down to give the wasp hive haired models added drama. Survival of the fittest? You bet. |
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Weardowney
British knitwear duo label Weardowny have grown up just a little bit for S/S 07. The ladies have taken Madame de Pompadour as their inspiration and the results, called Raison D’Etre, are deceptively simple. A variety of dresses (apron, tea and petticoat), vests (V, shrunken and bra), shorts (hot, frilly and baggy) and cardigans (cropped, hooded and caped) are all modest yet still expose heaps of flesh. The joy though is in the knits themselves. Whether ribbed, threaded, crochet, spiral, raffia or rattan, each texture drapes and clings to the body beautifully in neutral shades highlighted by pea green, forest red and sky blue. Naive buttons, ribbon belts, stocking boots and mob hats are the only adornments to this assured, consistent presentation. |
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Kaviar Gauche
With a name like Kaviar Gauche, don’t expect the understated for this Berlin double act’s LFW debut. Yet although it began as a bag brand (and yes each outfit on the catwalk is accompanied by a tote big enough for Lindsay Lohan to live in) the collection itself, Ladies In Shining Amour II, is less brash than it sounds. A succession of off white dress in chiffon and jersey all drop from the bust in different lengths. Lace printed baby doll dresses and pleated tulip skirts embellished with gold rings, chains and rivets indeed make these dusky maidens ready for battle. Silver panelled trousers, jodhpurs and hooded tops paired with buckled jackets meanwhile are more suited to raving in fields. Either way, get ready to stand and deliver. |
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Caroline Charles
If you’re a lady of a certain age who lunches then you’ll love Caroline Charles. Her cruise collection doesn’t reinvent the wheel but her target audience aren’t interested in edgy concepts. Rather they want to look nautical and ladylike from ship deck to dinner date. The navy and white board shorts, jeans and twin sets all mix and match in polka dots and stripes. Floaty floral separates scream picnic in candy pink and yellow. And for the evening, Chanel-inspired suits, embroidered black gowns and cashmere cardigans have a touch of Jackie O about them. Pass the Bellinis. |
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Future Classics
Future Classics is back. Hallelujah. Julie Wilkins took a season out for A/W 06 but she’s used the hard times to inform this new collection, entitled To Get Reborn You Need To Die A Little. At first the basics stay the same as she continues to deconstruct the T-shirt through a variety of jersey dresses in sludgy shades. One has an extra armhole, another misplaced pockets. Then the landscape broadens to include more sultry, panelled dresses Proenza Schouler would be proud of as well as rain coat dresses, silky utility shirts and wide legged pants all cut with clinical precision. Solid tangerine, acid olive and sunny yellow contrast with neon spots, poppy prints and pyjama stripes, the look topped off with perspex striper shoes and big bum bags that wouldn’t look out of place in Camden Market. That’s a good thing, by the way. |
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Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl go way out west on the crest of a wave for its LFW debut. The very commercial collection is full of references to cowboys and Indians, beach life and high seas as cowgirls in Stetsons and waistcoats strut their stuff next to surfer babes in bikinis carrying bags covered in oranges and limes. Native American print fabrics brighten floor sweeping sun gowns and wardrobe basics such as sailor trousers, Capri pants and wrap dresses all ready us for the one stand out dress – a full skirted 40s number with neon underskirts and a nipped in waist. Yet despite the day glo colours and wearable tailoring, the catwalk fails to break for the border. |
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Spijkers en Spijkers
The Danish do it better at Spijkers en Spijkers for S/S07. Having graduated from the terribly trendy Fashion East group show of the last two seasons, the sister act go solo with aplomb, calling their collection Remember What The Doorman Said. Looking to both author Carroll Lewis and artist Mark Ryder for their vision of Alice’s Wonderland, it’s the Mad Hatter’s tea party gone very dark indeed. The label’s signature geometric tailoring is ever present in the silky romper suits and pinafore dresses with big girly buttons. Candy hued wide stripes on Balenciaga-esque puff skirts and high-waisted shorts are good enough to eat but the twisted side of the tale becomes apparent via gold pea coats and flamenco print blouses. Only Spijkers en Spijkers know what’s through the looking glass. |
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