Perhaps bird flu's to blame, but it seems we are a nation becoming increasingly fussy about the lineage of our beef.

Is it Scottish or just Scotch, Argentine or Akaushi (the new, marbled but more monounsaturated breed that health-conscious Americans are currently loving)?

If you're as obsessed with the bloody stuff as I am you might like to spoil yourself with the new Wagyu beef menu at Asia de Cuba. Have it tartare-d with a soy-lime vinegairette, seared with rock shrimp brochettes and braised with white truffle and enoki tempura, with wines to match.

Or, if you're more of a purist, head to Hawksmoor which does the meanest sirloin on the bone (supplied by the delectable Ginger Pig) and the finest triple-cooked chips to soak up the juices, or Gaucho Grill, the Disneyworld of steak (in a good way), that has just added two more cuts to its popular, herb-marinaded Churrasco de Lomo: the Cuadril (rump) and chorizo (sirloin). Intense.