Despite the wonderful growth in food culture in this country and the myriad cuisines we can all be tempted by, some will continue to insist that French is best particularly when it comes to that noblest of Gallic institutions, the café.

West-leaning high streets all seem to have a plethora of options but they're all chains - Café Rouge, Maison Blanc, Le Pain Quotidien and Paul. All nice and everything and nothing to sneer at, but in no way interesting or memorable enough to rave about to your friends.

Head East, North or South for individuality with your patisserie. Rather than merely being francophile, these cafes are mostly French owned (or run), and all the better for it.

Starting East, we love the charmant deli counter at L'Eau à la Bouche on the
increasingly hip Broadway Market, and North, just off Holloway Road, Le Péché Mignon is a small but perfectly formed oasis with a rustic, farmhouse chic.