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Little Things

Okay, I was wrong. The trend for small sharing plates, tapas and chicchetti - that, being greedy, I wasn't originally a huge fan of - wasn't just a passing gimmick, but seems to be getting bigger (or is that smaller?) by the minute.

Salt Yard, one of London's most popular joints for Spanish and Italian nibbles, has achieved such success in its first year (it has been awarded a 'Bib Gourmand' by Michelin for 'good food at moderate prices', as well as numerous other merits) that its owners have just opened another place in a similar vein a hop, skip and a jump away - presumably so that those who can't get a table at one can always try the other.

Dehesa (referring to the woodland area in Spain that is home to Iberico pigs) has even more of a relaxed vibe than its sister restaurant, featuring the same stylishly rustic tones as well as a long communal table.

We particularly like the glass-fronted wine cellar-slash-private dining room in the basement, where there are plans afoot to hold tastings and pairings, and the deliciously eclectic brunch menu which features things like chargrilled sardines with patatas fritas and fig & goat's curd tart.

I, for one, am keeping quiet about my small-plate-cynicism for now.

Dehesa - now open
25 Ganton Street, W1 - 020 7494 4170

by SL
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