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Take It Away

Michelin stars are all very well but at a time when most of us are at least making an attempt to keep an eye on our bank balance surely what we really want is unfussy, restaurant quality food that we can enjoy at home in our tracksuit bottoms, minimum effort required.

Taking the idea that Rotisserie Jules started so well but seemed to then cease to put as much effort into, is Le Bouchon Bordelais in Battersea which, from Friday, is introducing Le Poulet Importer: a crispy-skinned, juicy-within whole or half poulet des Landes (posh, French corn-fed chicken), with sides of supremely creamy gratin dauphinous, well-seasoned green beans and some very nice gravy (I can't bring myself to call it 'jus').

There's also XO to GO in Belsize Park which, finally, brings Will Ricker's pan-Asian favourites to the masses - well, maybe not masses, and it doesn't actually bring, you have to go and pick them up, but it does mean you can go and grab a prawn har gua dumplings and black cod and pretend you've cooked it yourself.

And next week Tom's Place opens in Chelsea, meaning you'll be able to pick up your sustainable Newlyn-caught, battered gurnard and chips fried in beef-dripping and be on your sofa in time for 'Stenders.

XO, 31 Belsize Lane, NW3 5AS - 020 7433 0990
Tom's Place, 1 Cale Street, SW3 3QT - 020 7351 1806
Le Bouchon Bordelais, 5-9 Battersea Rise, SW11 1HG 020 7738 0307

by SL
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