Eat & Drink
Originally published on Tuesday, 25th October 2011
The More Things Change
You grow up; things change. Such is the way of life: the birds and the bees, hangovers (not that the two are related), tax, trends, tech, wrinkles. All that jazz. And when it comes to launching restaurants and clubs, things apparently aren’t so different.
Not so long ago, our grapevine was picking up a mild Russell Norman backlash after the last of his somewhat identikit venues (‘Da’, ‘a’, ‘etto’, etc.) launched. But things change…
The first small shift came with Polpetto – oh, the terror! – now taking reservations, and apparently serving more real-sized plates of food. And now Mishkin's, Mr Norman’s latest concept, is set to offer “a kind of Jewish deli with cocktails.” Venetian cicchetti to salt beef on rye? Things are most definitely a-shake in Russel-land.
But his isn’t the only semi-chain on the rise-and-change. The Hawksmoorites are busily in pre-launch mode with their latest empire du boeuf instalment, set in the heart of the city and largely sticking to their flagship’s formula. However they’re stepping things up with a walk-in wine room (if you’ve ever lusted over their Covent Garden cellar, you’ll know what joys to expect) featuring, and we’re not sure whether to chortle or salivate over this one, the city’s first oenomatic machine dedicated to port.
Meanwhile, away from the table, Le Baron is building on outposts in Paris, Tokyo and the long-awaited New York, by taking over what used to be the Embassy Club. Launching next month, we’re expecting their usual discerning door policy (something Mayfair could do with), cracking music and debauchery galore. But with their Twitter already calling out for (no doubt hot) “French girls and boys” to work, will this be a stock transfer from Europe to Blighty? Or will it too be looking to present something a little different?
After all: change, as we, Russell Norman, The Hawksmoorites and Le Baron all know, is the spice of life.
Info
Hawksmoor Guildhall, launches Oct 31,10-12 Basinghall St, EC2V 5BQ, reservations open now
Mishkin's, is due to launch Nov 25, 25 Catherine St, WC2B 5JS
Le Baron London, is set to launch early-mid Nov, 29 Old Burlington St, W1S 3AN
