Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 14th July 2010
Dishoom
Old-style Bombay cafe comes to London
12 Upper St Martins Lane, WC2H - 020 7420 9320
www.dishoom.com
Location
As any restaurant-loving insider will know, Covent Garden is on the brink of a revival with steak supremo Hawksmoor opening its second venue here in October and, rumour has it, even NY’s favourite all-day diner and people-watching venue Balthazar opening on the site of the old Theatre Museum in the not too distant future. So, all in all, a clever move for this quirky newcomer.
Vibe
Throughout the first half of the 20th century Bombay’s brasserie-like cafes (opened originally by Persian immigrants), with their slow-turning ceiling fans and mottled mirrors, were the chosen meeting places for businessmen and students, taxi-wallahs and writers – who were all welcome, as long as they refrained from ‘fighting, cheating, spitting’ and other rules that were commonly laid down by the owners.
Flavours
Following on from the success of Mooli’s in Soho, Dishoom disregards the usual kormas and vindaloos in favour of zingier street food, grills, rotis and the like. Catch up on The Times of India with a glass of proper chai tea and
a bacon naan roll for breakfast or enjoy a bangh lassi (traditionally spiked with rum) or a Bombalada (an Indian version of a pina colada) with chili cheese toast or spicy lamb chops.
Décor
Marble-topped tables, wood panelling scattered with sepia photos and vintage posters, black and white tiled floors and an open grill kitchen make for a relaxed yet stylish venue. The ground floor is naturally well-lit during the day and downstairs is a little cosier, all the better for cocktail-consuming in the evening.
Upshot
Bringing vintage Bombay sexy back, so far this brasserie with a twist seems to be making all the right moves. The proof, of course, is in the kulfi (served here on sticks), but we’re loving its old-school charm and anything-goes feel.
