Eat & Drink
Originally published on Wednesday, 4th June 2008
Burgundy, Merlot, Sherry, and The Square - Urban Junkies has teamed up with wine guru extraordinaire Tom Harrow to bring you the Wine Chap's useful Wine Tips.
ShelfTalk: White Port
Until the summer really kicks in, why not generate some temporary warmth with something stronger, pre-dinner. For a good source of liquid heat try light white port, a slightly sweeter alternative aperitif to Fino or Dry Amontillado sherry, served similarly chilled and short. Port, traditionally the accompaniment to cigars, gout and ruing the loss of Empire in Boodles, is receiving a makeover with Cockburns leading the way with a fresh, nutty new effort in more practical 50cl bottles (available various supermarkets) – particularly refreshing with tonic and a slice. Quinta de la Rosa (Berry Brothers) is also distinctive and Andreson’s 10-Year-Old (Laithwaites) intriguingly complex. It is rumoured that there was a time when, despite little commercial interest, Graham’s continued to make their white port only because the older matriarch of the family insisted on drinking it. Now perhaps it’s Granny who’s setting the trend…
BoozeBluff: ‘For me, Portugal is the new Austria’.
A topical and seemingly informed response to queries regarding one’s current red wine preference. Best delivered nonchalantly as a throwaway line at a loud party, inviting no further comment. Should conversation continue above the music, however, interspersing mentions of new enterprises in the Dao and Douro regions and recent sub-classification of the Burgenland amid general muttering should help convince any hovering wine pro, that you know your onions about current European wine trends.
WineMate: Lamb & Viogner.
Dining one April at Italy’s finest Syrah producer, D’Alessandro , I was expecting the slow-roasted whole shoulder of new season lamb to be served with the Estate’s spicy and juicy signature wine (a very natural pairing). But instead we were given glasses of the winery’s Viogner. Revisiting this combination recently, I was reminded how unexpectedly well its rich apricot fruit, pie-crust oak tones, and hints of white pepper, parma violets and cinammon work with lamb. Whilst some lighter versions may get lost, more powerful and expensive examples I have tried from Australia (Yalumba ), the Northern Rhone, from Condrieu in particular (Clusel-Roch ), and Sicily (Mirabile ) are definitely worth trying.
