Eat & Drink
Originally published on Tuesday, 2nd September 2008
Hurrah Jerez
In the heart of Andalucia, an hour south of Seville, is Jerez; the key city which gives its name to the world's oldest officially demarcated wine zone. A corruption of the Moorish Xerez (they didn’t drink but recognised its medicinal qualities – bravo) the other points of the Sherry triangle are on the coast:
El Puerto de Santa Maria (good surfing) and Sanlucar de Barrameda (home of the Spaniard's preferred aperitif – Manzanilla). Jerez hosts several festivals devoted to wine and horses throughout the year and for the serious wino Vinoble, the international fortified and sweet wine fair, is held every other year at the end of May.
Start with a morning caffe con lecche amongst the bullfighting posters at Bar Moderna, the old city walls running through its middle, on your way to the great central food market, "Mercado de Abastos”, which is full of local produce (like an extended Brindisa but with more smoking and icons of the Virgin).
World famous equestrian schools and a refreshingly un-Costa-like coastline aside, the region's main attractions are the venerable Sherry Bodegas themselves. You can stroll among the butts (barrels), stacked up to five-high as the traditional Solera system of blending and ageing requires in these ancient, dark, high-vaulted warehouses and then sample a number of the different styles available from light, tangy Fino all the way through to raisiny sweet Pedro Ximenez. Do not be surprised that all are served, generously, in normal wine glasses, not the much-hated schooners that don’t allow the contents to breathe and aromas to develop.
As well as the more commercial Bodegas like Harvey's (Bristol Cream) whose medium amontillado is an unexpected winner with mildy-curried prawns and Gonzalez Byas (Tio Pepe and Croft), complete with its own train to transport you around, any Sherry Junkies' hitlist should include visits to the following:
Bodegas Lustau (C/ Arcos 53, 956341597) – whose range and quality across the board is probably unrivalled, with very approachable Finos and some excellent rarer Olorosos. If these hit the mark you can join their Almacenista Club, which promotes globally rare sherries, dinner events and trips to their bodegas.
Bodegas Tradicion (Piazza Cordobeses 3, 956168628) – producing only four wines, which are nearly all over 40 years old – an Amontillado, a particularly good Palo Cortado and an Oloroso and PX - the latter two partnering well with lighter and more pungent cigars respectively assures their hard-smoking vicepresidente. The Bodega also houses a private art gallery of famous Spanish painters from the middle ages to contemporary artists including an El Greco, Goya and Picasso.
In Sanlucar de Barrameda, relaxed like an Iberian Brighton, but with rows of houses along the beachfront more reminiscent of South Beach, enjoy the popular Manzanillas and particularly good Amontillado in the fresher style of Bodegas Hidalgo – La Gitana (C/ Banda de la Playa 42, 956385304) with charming and laconic host Javier Hidalgo.
Seafood is among the best in the region in Sanlucar, so while in the Bajo de Guia, by the banks of the Guadalquivir, stop at the taberna of El Bigote (Bajo de Guia 10, Sanlucar, 956 36 26 96 in the Baio de Gaia) for bream fillets and slow cooked red peppers in Oloroso or choose a selection of lightly fried baby sole, squid and red mullet at El Mirador (Bajo de Guia 11450, 956364205) overlooking the river’s mouth.
Back in Jerez, artichokes and dry Amontillado make a great pairing at Bar Juanito - (C/ Pescaderia Vieja, 956334838), serving some of the city’s best tapas, while the Jamon Iberico, a delicious perfection of melting fat and salty sharpness, at Lagar el Tio Parilla (Plaza del Mercado, 956338334) in the gypsy quarter, is a tasty accompaniment to their late night Flamenco show (complete with wildly perspiring, stamping divas and shaggy-haired gypsy musicians).
Finish the evening sitting outside with a Brandy de Jerez or several Rebujitos (Fino and soda) at the exotic, North African/Roman-influenced Bereber and dancing with the local talent in their sound-proofed club area.
Bag one of the 18 rooms at 5star Hotel Villa Jerez to crash and work off your hangover poolside or, one of the nicest budget options is La Fonda Barranco, an old C 19th Merchant House in the Gypsy Quarter, right by the Cathedral with only 8 bedrooms. If in Sanlucar, the converted 18th century Hotel Posada de Palacio is an attractive option.
Ryanair flies direct, otherwise Seville is an hour’s drive; or you could always sail your yacht from Cadiz.
Bodegas Lustau (C/ Arcos 53, 956341597)
Bodegas Tradicion (Piazza Cordobeses 3, 956168628)
Bodegas Hidalgo – La Gitana (C/ Banda de la Playa 42, 956385304)
El Bigote (Bajo de Guia 10, Sanlucar, 956 36 26 96)
El Mirador (Bajo de Guia 11450, 956364205)
Bar Juanito - (C/ Pescaderia Vieja, 956334838)
Lagar el Tio Parilla (Plaza del Mercado, 956338334)
Berebar (Calle Cabezas 10, Barrio de Santiago, 956 34 00 16)
Hotel Villa Jerez
La Fonda Barranco (C/Barranco 12, 11403 Jerez de la Frontera, 956332141) •
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Hotel Posada de Palacio
