Eat & Drink
Originally published on Tuesday, 8th June 2010
Wine Chap’s Wine Tips: June
WineMate: 1707
Time for WineChap’s bi-annual Fortnum’s plug. Alongside the seasonally changing wine flight program, 1707 has introduced an old school cheese trolley and selection of Madeira older than me by the glass. As wine buyer Tim French says, “Madeira has some great USPs: it doesn’t go off (it is pretty indestructible), it’s a great wine to share and talk about with friends and it’s really unusual.
NB – open until 10:30pm, dress code ‘requests both sexes lean more towards elegance’(!)
1707 Wine Bar, Fortnum & Mason’s, 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER
www.fortnumandmason.com
WineChap: Galvin La Chapelle
Previously the Victorian Church, St Botolph’s Hall, it retains an air of sanctity – even while replacing the altar with a flashy wine cave. The pigeon tagine was so good I ordered it twice in three days (firstly the day before the restaurant hosted Giles Coren’s wedding feast, latterly next to a large table hosted by Gilbert and George) which, after a very flavoursome crab ravioli, mopped up the remnants of Bernard Grippa’s stunningly intense St Peray 2007 white from the Rhone (a baby Hermitage, for under £50).
Vintellect Tip #1 – Award-winning sommelier Andrea Bricarello and assistant Nicolas Verhoye can be relied on to produce some interesting and reasonably-priced bottles – the Rhone and southern French sections are highlights.
Vintellect Tip #2 – Café a Vin, the attached wine bar, is re-launching with more space at the bar (à la Texture/Hix Soho) and an enhanced selection of wines and more offerings by the glass.
Galvin La Chapelle, 35 Spital Square, E1 6DY
www.galvinrestaurants.com
Drink Out: The Milroy
The Milroy, at legendary private members casino and club Les Ambassadeurs, is throwing its doors open to the public for lunch. And for old-school opulence with a park-facing, sun-bathed main dining room it’s hard to beat. The menu is straightforward and surprisingly well-priced (you won’t require a big win on the tables downstairs to afford three courses) with some excellent touches. In particular the Milroy’s tartare – prepared in front of you with your choice of ingredients plus a quail Scotch egg is the signature dish of the year so far.
Vintellect Tip – Don’t tell everyone but... the cellar, subsidized by the club members’ heavy losses, offers some stunning value high-end wines, encouraging even the lowly public to join the High Rollers.
The Milroy, Les Ambassadeurs Club, 5 Hamilton Place, W1J 7ED
www.themilroy.com
GrapeVine: Franco’s
I always swore I would happily drink but never write about rosé… but one just can’t ignore Europe’s largest pink selection on our very doorstep. So if you are that way inclined then everyone’s Jermyn street favourite now offers over 50 pinks on offer and 9 by the glass, including some more interesting off-the-beaten-track efforts from North Africa. Who knows, if you drink enough it might remind the sun to come out a touch more regularly…
Franco’s, 61 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LX
www.francoslondon.com
