Originally published on Monday, 21st September 2009

What's for supper? Eating Istanbul in 21 Days

Safely out of reach of the EU’s sterilising hand, Istanbul is a city of 3 am street food peddlers, centuries old yoghurt shops and markets where Pepsi bottles of raw milk sit alongside wild mushrooms and truffles.

As in much of the Middle East, real Turkish family cooking is the preserve of the home and with the exception of upscale restaurants, eating out is the domain of men. There can be no better indoctrination into working-class Istanbulli society than to sit cheek-by-jowl with bus drivers scoffing kebabs and köfte or slurping bowls of garlicky braised vegetables with the local men’s club on a break from smoking and playing cards.

For a dizzying glimpse of Istanbul’s modern side - head to the northern hipster neighbourhoods of Cihangir, Çukurcuma and Nişantaşi for rosewater cocktails or goat’s milk and tahini ice cream.

The following guide is the result of 3 weeks’ scouring the streets of Istanbul. From a crude barbecue peddling fresh mackerel sandwiches to a centuries old milk shop where old men breakfast on crusty bread spread with kaymak and honey one needs only to walk a few paces in any direction here to find something delicious.

Modern Istanbul / Hardcore Turkish		Soup shops, milk bars and sweet shops		Coffee house's and Tea gardens
Food Markets		Istanbul street food		More Istanbul street food..

 Jennifer Klinec from Eat Drink Talk has kindly agreed to provide Urban Junkies readers with mouthwatering recipes and foodtips.

To learn more, classes at Eat Drink Talk are held in Jennifer's beautiful loft in Clerkenwell, packed with information and useful tips, and you'll get to sample all of the delicious dishes prepared during class.

by JK

In collaboration with Eat Drink Talk