Almost exactly 10 years after our first stay at Yeotown, the health retreat in Devon, we ventured over to Madeira to try out their more recent branch on the island of Madeira.
The Ethos
Yeotown has always set out to do things differently. This is not a classic ‘detox’, or retreat around limiting food, but it’s about stripping things back and focusing on what’s good for you. And here that includes feeding the gut right, movement, and a little mindfulness. Starting on a Monday each week, the classic Yeotown retreat runs from Monday to Saturday AM, with four full days of activities in between.
The Schedule
They don’t give you the schedule, which is part of what they believe gets people to be in the moment. But most days start with some kind of movement, followed by a hike of varying degrees (and altitudes), followed by other activities in the afternoon. We won’t say more than that, as surprise is a big part of it, but there’s quite a bit of yoga, and three massages are included, which is very welcome.
The Accommodation
They say it’s boho chic, and that perfectly describes the offering here. Choose a room (various categories) or a standalone lodge. Décor is wicker and soft lighting, with Yeotown products in the bathroom, and bold paintings, if your room comes with a sitting room. They might not have a mini bar, but there’s always tea, and you’re given daily ‘treats’ to aid your experience.
The Vibe
Things are upbeat and relaxed. Music hums from the kitchen, and the only noise you really hear are of the resident bumblebees and lizards. There are mindful books and gratitude pillows around, but also surf boards and bright Portuguese crockery.
Dining
Rachel, who heads up the kitchen, is truly a star. There are some snacks that we remember from our first trip – Yeotown staples like seeded crackers – but also things she’s put her own stamp on, with her global cuisine that leans towards Mexi-Cali. The menu changed daily, and although there’s no wheat, gluten, or dairy (or coffee or alcohol, either), dishes included things like chia waffles with coconut yogurt, mango, pineapple and passionfruit in the AM (there are always two options for breakfast, and you can also have mini portions of both if you can’t decide); zucchini fritters with curried cauliflower and harissa yogurt with lentils for lunch; and fish tacos with kiwi mango salsa, guac, cabbage, rice and salad. There was always also dessert.
Wellbeing
The staff here, from hiking to massage and yoga, were all excellent. There’s no real choice regarding the schedule, so do come with an open mind. Days are pretty packed, but when there are windows, it’s a chance to head to the sauna, outdoor pool, firepit, or bed for some quick Zs.
Highlights
Madeira is beautiful. It’s an island, so the weather changes very quickly, and your altitude also affects this. You might need a sweatshirt at Yeotown, but by the time you get to sea level, a tank top, hat and sunscreen. They grow almost everything there – except for money, as our guide poignantly said – with Madeira bananas being a focus. And the housekeeping staff here are truly outstanding: better than any five-star hotel we’ve stayed out. It’s such a treat to come back to a neat, polished room to relax in.
Top Tips
Weeks vary in bookings, so do ask who is there if group size matters to you. Camelpacks are great for the trails, and make sure you bring warm, comfy clothes, no matter the season, as the temperature really dips at night. They also supply huge calf-length sheepskin-like lined dry coats (we loved these) which we wore daily, in August! They do your laundry daily (for the full days you are there) so there’s also no need to overpack and things are very casual, even for dinners.
Anything Else
Wondering how difficult it is? The hikes and schedule are tailored to your group, so that too will vary from week to week. They’re very accommodating though, so you can always ask for more/less challenging hikes, too.
