Tucked away on a side street just off Lisbon’s main Avenida da Liberdade, you’ll find the rather unassuming entrance to MIMI. Part of The Oliver Group, the owner, chef-entrepreneur Olivier da Costa, is something of a Portuguese celebrity, with more than 35 restaurants across seven countries.
The Décor
Good lighting goes a long way with us, but here, with the counter lit up by defined spotlights, it was truly outstanding. The décor is relatively simple in the main room – dark walls, olive tiles, a sultry wood countertop and an open kitchen – ensuring the focus remains on the cuisine.
Do sit at the counter: it’s where you want to be at a venue like this, as there’s a definite, refined performance element to the proceedings here.
The Menu
This is a 12 ‘moment’ (which is how they describe each course) omakase, headed up by an exceptionally talented sushi chef. Items include the best fresh fish from around Portugal: oysters from the Algarve, snapper from Sagres, bream from the Azores. They also incorporate elevated products like bluefin toro and Japanese Wagyu, use techniques like smoking and torching – and there are also a few caviar add-on options.
To start, there’s a crispy bread that’s shaped like a hand fan (with more of a poppadom texture than a bread or cracker, crafted into a piece of fine art), and wine recommendations change daily, depending on what the fish of the day is. The portions here were perfect. Twelve courses can sometimes be a daunting number, but here it was just right.
Highlights
This felt like a real experience, with service that made sure every detail was slick. The team here works together in real synergy, aware of the movements and pace of all guests at the horseshoe shaped counter.
Anything else?
They now have an à la carte menu available at the tables, too.
Photo: Hayley Kelsing Photography
Photos: Hayley Kelsing Photography
Photos: Hayley Kelsing Photography
Photos: Hayley Kelsing Photography
