Restaurants & Bars: Restaurant Reviews

Sushi Kanesaka

13-seater omakase at 45 Park Lane

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There’s a bit of a fun factor at 45. If The Dorchester is the well-groomed adult, 45 seems to be more the mischievous younger sibling. Things are more laid back, though still elegant of course, and people at the bar upstairs seem to be having a great time.

The Restaurant
The first outpost of the two Michelin-star Sushi Kanesaka from Tokyo, chef Shinji Kanesaka is at the helm here too, creating an omakase menu that uses ingredients from Japan (rice, wasabi) and the freshest fish from across the globe, prepared with traditional techniques.

The Vibe
Tucked behind a discreet curtain, the small space instantly transports you to Tokyo. The dining room is extremely calming, with the sushi counter made out of a single piece of Japanese cedar. There’s no real music, but it doesn’t feel missed – the show is the chef, and as there are so few diners (nine seats at one bar, four at the other), it gives you a chance to speak to fellow guests, should you feel chatty. There’s also a Japanese host who stands at the back of the room behind guests, ensuring that whatever you need is delivered before you even ask. There’s a relatively large team for the space, which makes things seamless.

The Food and Drink
What an experience. Dinner starts with a glass of Champagne, and there are up to 20 courses served. Highlights for us included steamed albacore with wasabi and shio, all of the exquisitely crafted nigiri, and the straight-from-the-sea fresh negitoro maki. You can choose sake pairings, or drink wine, Japanese whisky, beer, or of course tea. There are also non-alcoholic options.

Highlights
Being so close to the master. What a privilege to watch him work. The atmosphere was so serene, but upbeat and professional. Three hours passed in a blink.

Originally published on
4th September 2023

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