Restaurants & Bars: Restaurant Reviews

Turnips

Beats and a five-course menu under the arches

Details

Opening hours

Fine dining (£65pp): Thursdays to Saturdays between 7pm (7:30pm on Fridays) and 10pm; Sundays between 2:30pm and 7pm.
Small plates: Wednesdays to Saturdays between 6:30pm (7:30pm on Fridays) and 10:30pm.

More info

What do you get when one of Borough’s oldest, most respected veg stalls (Turnips) partners with a great, forward-thinking London chef? Something new for London.

The Décor/Vibe

Pared-back, metal tables under the arches of Borough market with an open, converted shipping container kitchen. It feels fresh, urban, and like you’re somewhere else – Berlin maybe?

Dining

Tomas Lidakevicius, the ex-executive chef of Jason Atherton’s City Social is at the helm here and his gourmet approach in such a laid-back environment is unique and modern. From the modest kitchen (a shipping container with a giant green egg outside) to the menu, Tomas plates anything but modest cuisine. Noirmoutier potatoes (heard of them? Neither had we; they’re supposedly the most expensive spuds) with girolles and sour cream butter. Cod with mussels and a Provence tomato foam/sauce. Tender Dexter sirloin. Melon with lemongrass and chili. Five courses felt just right. The sommelier/waiter here could be from any London great; he knew his pairings, with wines being largely from the UK.

Highlights

The juxtaposition of haute cuisine in this urban setting really can’t be beat! It was pouring rain when we were there too, and we didn’t feel a drop; it was actually very atmospheric. We brought an extra sweater and were glad we did; remember, you are sitting outside. The new partnership – market trader and highly regarded chef – seems like a smart way to update and extend the offering.

Top Tip

DO do the tasting menu. The area where it’s served – across from the actual Turnips stall, is special. They also have small plates and cocktails in the market if you’re in a rush (it’s quite bright in there though so maybe bring shades).

Feel Good Factor

This is another great post lockdown story. Charlie was faced with almost losing his family business (Turnips) during lockdown, but with the help of Tomas (who supported their home delivery service), they stayed afloat, and when Borough approved the use of the outdoor space for dining, the two decided to do something together. You can truly feel their positive dedication to make this work. Go.

Originally published on
27th July 2020

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