Snow isn’t the first thing you think of when you think of Portugal, but it’s likely what you’ll find if you head to Casa de São Lourenço in the winter. Just outside of the quaint town of Manteigas, you’ll find this updated Pousada, the name for “hotels that don’t look like hotels”, where walkers historically stopped for traditional Portuguese hospitality. At 1250 metres high, located in the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, this property is a good launch pad for year-round activities in the region. Crisp mountain air and five-star accommodation is a great combination for rejuvenation.
The Hotel
A Michelin Key and Relais & Châteaux property, Casa de São Lourenço is the first and only five-star mountain hotel in Portugal. Although the Pousada has been updated, it also retains elements from its past, including pieces of furniture. Guests are largely here to hike, bike, spa, snowshoe and even ski. Their sister property, the four-star Casa das Penhas Douradas, is a short drive away and can be reached by foot, should you feel like trying both.
The Vibe
This is an elevated mountain retreat that offers serene surroundings with friendly service. The dress code seemed to be chic outdoorwear by day and elegant casualwear by night.
The Rooms
There are 15 rooms and five suites, all with clean lines, contemporary pieces, and traditional accents like Burel wool curtains and blankets. The main focus though, of course, is the view of the mountains, which you can see from your bed, shower, and terrace.
Restaurants/Bars
The dining room, Fatiga, has a roaring fire, which sets the tone for an inviting space. Warm lighting highlights the Burel star installation on the ceiling; everywhere you look here you’ll see considered Portuguese artisanal touches.
For lunch, they have a set menu if you’re looking for something quick, and for dinner they have different tasting menus or à la carte. If you’re staying for a few days you’ll probably try both, as there are no other real options within walking distance. Dishes are hearty, created with mountain activities in mind, and ingredients – such as suckling pig and wild boar – reflect your surroundings, too. Cooking techniques and food presentation are modern, and the wine list focuses on Portuguese regions. For breakfast, order à la carte (neat asparagus omelettes or sweet pancakes), or sample the cakes and fruits laid out.
The Spa
With three treatment rooms, a sauna, steam room, indoor-outdoor pool with hydro-massage circuit, and an outdoor tub (ofurô) that can be privately booked (great for sundowners or stargazing), this is a great place to end your day.
Anything Else
We know it’s not cool to smoke, but they have a smoking room with great ventilation and a collection of antique silver lighters, should you be so inclined. Look out for the Burel wool around the hotel, which they’ve used as wallpaper, pillow covers, and throws. The staff uniforms also change frequently and are based on different colour palettes, which is nice.
Highlights
The activities. There are self-guided hiking routes, as well as guided trails (all take between two to six hours); there’s also electric biking; off-road jeep expeditions; snowshoeing; tours of the Burel Factory (which shows the traditional weaving process in action and has a small shop – we love their items for kids!); wine tasting; and, in the summer, they offer trips to the lagoons and “river beaches”, with crystal-clear glacial water.
How to Get There
Fly: to Lisbon or Porto
Train: to Belmonte-Manteigas
