Ask anyone in Lisbon for a great weekend getaway that you can drive to and they’ll likely say São Lourenço; there’s a lot of local love for this farmhouse. And it’s not only from locals, too: it frequently makes Condé Nast Traveller’s Readers’ Choice Awards and Gold List. Located in the beautiful inland wine region, Alentejo, São Lourenço do Barrocal is approximately two hours south from Lisbon airport.
Photo: Ash JamesThe Hotel
This is a special piece of land. The estate has been in the family for over 200 years, and is currently run by an 8th generation owner, José Antonio Uva. What we expected to find here: wine, olive trees, and rustic-yet-elevated farmhouse accommodation. What we found was so much more: vast land that feels more like a safari than farmland. Luxury in terms of space, which is at every turn. Small touches with big impact. There is a lot to like here.
Photo: Nelson GarridoThe Vibe
It’s a term that’s overused, but this is definitely rustic-chic. Two chairs placed on cobblestones for stargazing. It’s simple at first glance, but with slick service, soft blankets, and a carefully tended fire, this is far from a basic operation. Guests were global and local, and on our stay seemed to be primarily from the US and UK. At night, the signature fragrance is campfire. In the AM, the soundtrack is rooster. You get the vibe.
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash JamesThe Rooms
The 40 rooms are cottages located within the original farm buildings. Highlights include terraces with festoon lighting, baths, generous room sizes, and the feeling that you actually live here. These are calming spaces, with neutral walls, vaulted ceilings, wood furnishings, and soft throws. Olive oil cakes on arrival are a nice touch, and mini bars, with local IPAs and crisps, are gratis.
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash JamesRestaurants/Bars
There’s a living room in the main house next to the ‘lobby’ that doubles as a bar. Start evenings here, then move across the cobblestone road to the restaurant. We love this size of this space – with maybe 10 tables, tops – with picnic benches and throws outside, for additional diners. The menu is of course farm-to-table, and what you see (pumpkins on the farm) is what you get (many courses with pumpkin). There’s a focus on traditional dishes that have been slightly modernised, and organic products from local suppliers. Wines include those made on the farm, lighting is cosy and elegant, and the service is extremely friendly. Breakfast is served here too, and includes healthy items like green juice shots and local products like honey, eggs, and a breakfast spirit.
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash JamesHighlights
The grounds. Pared back and oh so chic. The pool is ‘anchored’ by a huge local granite rock, ‘barrocal’, and has a simple bar attached, with white directors’ chairs and overgrown, hanging wisteria. The grounds serve as a working farm, so pop in to see the olive oil being made; check out their vineyards and go for a wine tasting to try their DOC wines; go horseback riding or bike through the estate (there are two loops to try); and see the cows, donkeys or even packs of wild boars if you’re lucky. There’s also a small, serene Susanne Kaufmann Spa; a well-curated boutique that carries Portuguese products, including everything from books and toys to their wines and olive oils; and a program of daily events including star gazing, walks and tea time.
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Ash James
Photo: Nelson Garrido
Photo: Ash JamesAnything Else
Do book a car from the airport to bring you directly here (instead of reserving a seat on the train) – the door to door service makes the trip effortless, and it’s a nice drive. The hotel is also next to the medieval town, Monsaraz, which is worth a quick look if you want a mini excursion from the property: from the castle’s hilltop vantage point, you can really feel the many years of defense that happened here (you can see Spain in the distance).
Photo: Ricardo BravoEnd Note
Here, it’s really about time and space. Come, look at the stars, sit by the campfire, and enjoy time in the countryside alone or with friends and family.
Photo: Nelson Garrido
