We’ve wanted to go to the Dolomites for years. Crisp mountain air, hiking, biking, wining, dining, it ticked a lot of boxes in theory – and it 100% delivered.
The Hotel
Family-owned and run, you can tell there’s a lot of love poured into this hotel. Part of the Belvita Leading Wellnesshotels Südtirol, the Tratterhof Mountain Sky Hotel has evolved over the years to blend contemporary updates with their traditional DNA to create something that feels both authentic and modern. Perched in the sky (hence its name), it’s 1500 ft above the Valle Isarco and Val Pusteria and has panoramic views.
The Vibe
There’s a laidback but intentional atmosphere here. People are either off to explore – the trails go directly from the hotel and are perfect for biking, hiking, mountain or e-biking – or they’re spa-ing like pros. The hotel snakes around, so nowhere ever feels busy as there are so many coves to hide away in. There’s a definite cordial feel around, as most people are here for a few days and guests seem to be mainly from Europe and the UK. Overall, it feels fresh, friendly, and health-enthused but not obsessed!
The Rooms
Wood rooms with clean lines and neutral tones make this a calming refuge to return to and wake up in – and again, it’s all about the views. Relax under the moon on your deck chair, or push the doors completely open and take it all in from your bed; there’s a definite indoor/outdoor flow.
Restaurants and Bars
Never before had we considered half board; how wrong we were. In the right setting, it has a real charm. At Tratterhof, guests are allocated a table for the duration of their stay, where you have breakfast and dinner. It all feels very Dirty Dancing, in the best way, complete with the staff doing rounds to say hi every night. Breakfast is a buffet, with a highlight being local breads, pastries, numerous different kombuchas and a DIY juicer.
Dinner, too, starts – yes, we said starts – with a buffet, with salad, cheese, dips, and even stone-ground wholewheat pizzas. Next, there’s a daily, considered menu that includes a starter, palette cleanser, pasta, main, and dessert. Presentation is sophisticated, waiters wear traditional South Tyrolean dress, and there’s music from local artists (including a 93-year-old man who plays 28 instruments – it’s that kind of place).
The Spa
The spa is a huge draw here. There are pools, cold plunges, infrared saunas, and an XXL sauna that has a nightly ritual. The spa is adults only and is spread over two floors, one of which is a quiet zone. Treatments are available, and there’s a large, light-filled studio for daily yoga and other sessions. The gym is extensive, with new equipment and PTs available.
Activities
You can come here to just chill, but most people are here to be active. For hiking, you can leave directly from the hotel for numerous different trails, or go further afield: the options are endless.
For biking, hire an e-bike (ideally with a guide; we went with the brilliant Peppi rentals), and cruise through the trails: the wheels can handle the bumpy trails surprisingly well.
Fitness is fun here too – no matter what you do or where you go, there’s usually a hut somewhere soon (you can run/walk to Baita Großberghütte from the hotel), with traditional and sometimes more contemporary South Tyrolean fare (try Gitschhütte, a little further up a mountain), and cold drinks.
In the summer, take the gondola up to hike and dine, and in the winter, to ski. There are even things like walking alpacas – sounds odd, but it’s reasonable, and good for the animals.
Highlights
The staff. You’ll see the owners behind the reception desk or attending to a problem – they are that hands on. Plus, having the same wait staff every night builds rapport. And the views. It’s also surprisingly reasonable, considering half board is included.
Getting There
Just two hours direct from LGW to Bolzano on SkyAlps – the only direct carrier – followed by a 40-minute drive and you’re at Tratterhof. To note, SkyAlps, a twin-propeller aircraft, flies much lower than usual planes, so your view of the Dolomites is even better. They also serve boutique spirits and local South Tyrolean wines, gratis, with local snacks. Hospitable service that’s only rarely seen these days.
Hannes - Insider Interview
Want to know more? Hannes, the ever-knowledgeable GM at Tratterhof, took the time to give us some of his favourite spots in the local area. Read now.
