Restaurants & Bars: Restaurant Reviews

Scully

Innovative cuisine in a relaxed, fun setting

Details

Opening hours

Mon-Sat: 12–3pm, 5:30–10:30pm
Sun: 12-4pm

Address

4 Saint James’s Market, St. James’s, London SW1Y 4AH

More info

As fans of Yotam Ottolenghi’s innovative combinations, the news that Ramael Scully – who worked for Yotam for years – was opening his first solo venture made us take note. When we learned more about Ramael’s background (born in Malaysia, grew up in Sydney, Chinese/Indian mother and Irish/Balinese father) – we were interested. This could be good. And it most definitely was.

Décor and Vibe

Just off St. James, this cosy restaurant is a vibe unto itself. Banish thoughts of stuffy suits and magnums of something offensive. Here, lights are warm, the chef’s counter and kitchen are buzzy, and communal tables are having a great time. On the Friday we were there, it seemed like the whole restaurant stayed for 3 hours plus. Jars of pickled everything line the walls – Scully is known for making what his dishes need from scratch – and staff are friendly and efficient.

Food and Drink

Like innovative combinations, bold flavours and dishes that surprise and inspire? Then this is the place for you. Highlights on our visit included puff beef tendons with tomato pancetta kilpatrick and oyster mayo (definitely not fat free but oh so good), heirloom tomato coconut salad with green strawberries, and stone bass with pistachio sambal. SO GOOD. Don’t know what any of these ingredients are? Just ask. For dessert it was rapeseed and bay leaf ice cream with black sesame cookie, and goat’s cream cheesecake with cornflake pretzel crunch – both so interesting and delicious. Don’t leave without trying something new.

Highlights

Scully! What a man. We highly recommend sitting at the chef’s counter and watching the master and his staff at work. The wine list was largely bio/organic (and great) and the cocktails, like the cuisine, were extremely innovative, so do start with a drink. And on that note – Friday afternoon is a great time to book in. This is an afternoon you won’t want to rush. But we could also imagine popping in here for some charred broccoli, octopus, and a glass of wine – so if you’re short of time, that works too.

Top Tip

Let the staff guide you – they know their menus!

By TR

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