It’s interesting, this world we live in. When you can feel an instant hit – vibe, cuisine and staff, all on point – before it even opens, you know you’re not alone. Which is good for them, but it also means the global insta-ratti will immediately find it too; Kumori has had queues since its opening week. Again, good for them, but it has made us think… How, as local insiders, can we try to claim new places, even just for a bit? One might say Fat Badger in Notting Hill did a good job of this – they had very few details out about their offering in the beginning. Anyway, we digress. Kumori is excellent. At a time when you might think “how can we need another handroll in London?” (there’s been a recent bombardment, as you likely know), it makes you realise: not all handroll establishments are created equal.
The Décor/Vibe
30 counter seats, windows facing outside, tucked just off Shaftesbury Ave in an area that desperately needed something cool – this place ticks all the boxes. And after they get the foot rest pieces delivered for their stools, which may have already happened, you’ll probably want to linger a little longer. The owner supposedly travelled around for three years researching handroll spots for inspiration, and it shows. The music, lighting, accents, layout: all considered. There’s something very NYC about this place in terms of vibe.
The Menu
The head chef here was previously the head chef at Tobi Masa in NYC, so that tells you a little about the calibre. The menu is short but superb – highlights include the torched scallop and burnt salmon rolls, and you can also add a caviar bump, which doesn’t feel annoying here, as it’s to go on actual food. There are also a few additional small plates, and mochi or ice cream for dessert. Soya sauce comes in the form of an eye dropper – perfect – and prices are reasonable for W1.
Highlights
The vibe: it feels fun in a way that the best London counter spots (think Spuntino, Pulpo) did in their heydays.
Left (Alvin), Middle (Marc), Right (John)
