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Up Market

Dining out on food halls

As much as we love the 1980s connotations of a trash-tastic food hall, the new markets are a far more polished and conceptualised affair. The three newcomers below bring the best of both worlds: elevated dining in unexpected settings, Michelin-starred menus and still the choice to eat something completely different for each course – no food envy necessary.

The abandoned arcade of Victoria’s Terminus Place has long been a site for regeneration (we’ll always think of it as Pacha!), and now it’s about to open as Market Hall Victoria with three floors, 11 kitchens and three bars. You’ll be able to work your way around Monty’s Deli, Koya Ko, Kerbisher & Malt, bunshop and Baozi Inn, and come spring there will be a rooftop bar. Until then, check out the bar inside – built in the former Underground ticket booths, it’s a great spot to take out-of-towners. And heads up: Market Halls will also open a site on Oxford Street early next year in the former BHS building, making it the biggest food hall in the UK.

At Coal Drops Yard, the sprawling archways create a relaxed food hall vibe to dip in and out of, and the vendors have the chance to have some fun with their formats. Hicce has created a DIY open sandwich bar (for anyone that loves an off-menu order), whilst favourites like Barrafina, Monty’s Deli and El Pastor have all switched up their usual offering. Make sure to try Vermuteria – it’s the new bar (read: and a guaranteed CDY party spot) from Anthony Demetre (Wild Honey, Arbutus, Les Deux Salons) stocking over 50 vermouths.

And as always, be sure to keep an eye on those Adrià brothers. Albert may currently have our attention diverted to his brand new Cakes & Bubbles opening in Soho (and rightly so – we have to try the Tickets cheesecake), but he’s also working alongside his brother (el Bulli’s Ferran Adrià) and José André on Mercado Little Spain, arriving in New York’s Hudson Yards by spring. Expect an all-day dining destination with the best of Spanish cuisine, from tapas, pintxos, jamon, churros, fried seafood and pastries to Spanish grocery items. We can’t wait to see how the food hall format evolves with the imagination of the Adriàs – watch that space.

Food halls 2.0 are here – just make sure you bring an appetite!

By AS-H

Originally published on
13th November 2018

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