Flavour Bastard

With a name like Flavour Bastard, Frith Street’s latest arrival was never going to go for the shy and retiring type. Why waste time on being authentic – this is Soho, and owners Pratap Chahal (Cinnamon Club, Claridges, Chez Bruce) and Vic Singh have other ideas. The name relates to their ‘culture-agnostic’ ethos, and from what we’ve seen of the menu, they’ve seriously run with the theme. White lentil, chorizo and pecorino doughnuts, steamed rice cakes with house kimchi, sesame and ssam-lettuce, or miso and mango-glazed aubergine with peanut crumble. While the concept might have raised a few eyebrows, we’re reminded of the kind of free-association street food brands have been using with their menus for the past few years, prioritising good flavours over authenticity. Controversial? Maybe. But who doesn’t want to be talked about?