Temper, Covent Garden

Neil Rankin does like to keep us all on our toes, doesn’t he? First, it was mezcal and tacos set against the backdrop of a central BBQ, Turkish ocakbasi-style, all beneath the streets in Soho. Then we had curry, by way of Malaysia, Japan, Thailand and Sri Lanka, paired with gin in the City. And now it’s pizza – not via Italy, but instead inspired by the States. There are two bases at work here: the deep-dish Detroit style and the bar-style, designed to be served at the counter with a drink or two. Neil’s trademark affinity for BBQ runs through, with toppings including slow-cooked goat ragu and Wagyu salami, as well as rendered beef fat and pesto tortellini. As with Temper’s sister sites, the interiors are focused and theatrical: a large wood-fired oven will take centre stage. At the bar, it’s all about vermouth, so switch your usual negroni for a spritz or Americano.